Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Turnover Tuesdays - Retirement Accounts

For those who are not familiar, I started a series a while back called Turnover Tuesdays. Every Tuesday I like to highlight one item that I have resold. This will include profitable and non profitable sales. I hope that there is always something to learn.

Being a small business owner provides a lot of extra taxes in this country (like self employment tax) but the tax code also provides some pretty good incentives to avoid some of those taxes while planning for your retirement at the same time.

This post is not about business expense tax deductions.  There are a lot of those for small business owners as well and maybe I'll have a post on that in the future.  This post is specifically an introduction into some of the retirement accounts available in this country that can lower your tax burden.

As I always write, I am not an accountant, in fact I paid an accountant this year to do my taxes (business expense!).  I have rudimentary knowledge in accounting and retirement accounts but hopefully this is enough to start a conversation and get those who are interested on the path towards responsible retirement planning and tax avoidance.  Please speak to your tax adviser about what works best for you.

Just remember, it's not a crime to lower tax obligations.  You should avoid taxes when possible.  If you misrepresent your income to avoid taxes or claim tax deductions you aren't eligible for, that is a crime of tax fraud/tax evasion.  I can't stress this enough, you must always pay every penny of the tax you owe.  Our goal is to legitimately owe less.


Capital Constraints


Retirement accounts often have penalties if you withdraw the funds before they are eligible.  If you are funding retirement accounts, that money is staying there unless there are extenuating circumstances.  Selling on Amazon requires a lot of capital.  Don't put away money in quarter 1 that you will need for quarter 4.  You aren't saving that way.  If capital constraints are a problem, don't put away quite as much.  Saving for retirement hurts but withdrawing savings from retirements hurts even more.





The IRS has a list of all the possible retirement accounts and their details here.  I won't go through all of them since some don't apply to most people but they are good to know about.  If you are closer to retirement, you may be able to make "catch-up" contributions beyond the limits stated, depending on your age and the plan.




Basic Retirement Accounts


These retirement accounts are available to anyone who has income, not just business owners.



IRA



An IRA is an Individual Retirement Account (IRA).  You can open an IRA with any number of institutions and you should not be paying on fees to have your IRA administered.  Any money put into an IRA is free from income tax the year you contribute.  For example, if you make $100,000 a year and you contribute $5,000 towards an IRA, you now only pay income tax on $95,000 of income instead of $100,000 of income.  If your marginal tax rate is 30%, you will have saved $1,500 in taxes this year since you would have paid $1,500 of taxes on that $5,000 of income.

When you withdraw the money from the IRA you are now obligated to pay taxes on that income.  For example, if you decide to withdraw that $5,000 when you are 70 years old and retired and your marginal tax rate is now 10%, you will have to pay $500 of taxes on the withdrawal.



Limits - You can only contribute $5,500 a year under current limits

Keep in mind that the growth of the money is tax deferred but they are taxable.  If that $5,000 became $50,000 over 30 years, you will have to pay income tax on the entire $50,000 upon withdrawal like any regular capital gains.

Withdrawal Limitations - You can start to withdraw at age 59 and a 1/2 and if you withdraw early you will pay a 10% penalty aside from the income taxes you have to pay.

Income Limitations - None

Basics of an IRA

Roth IRA


Roth IRAs are trickier.  Roth IRAs work almost in the opposite way as regular IRAs.  Instead of lowering your current tax obligation, when you contribute to a Roth you owe the same amount of taxes during that year.  Your current taxable income doesn't change.  The advantage of the Roth is that any gains you incur are not taxable.

For example, if you contribute $5,000 and it turns into $50,000, you still only paid the tax on the original $5,000, not the $45,000 you earned over time.  In addition, if you are currently in a much lower tax bracket than you plan to be in during withdrawal, you can pay taxes at your current rate and avoid paying taxes on the principal and the gains at the higher rate as with a traditional IRA


Limits - $5,500 a year under current limits

Withdrawal Limitations - You can begin to withdraw without penalties if the money has been in the account for at least five years and you are 59 and a half or meet certain criteria.  It's more complicated so consult your tax adviser if you need to withdraw early

Income limitations - not everyone is eligible.  If you are single, you can contribute if you earn $132,000 or less and if you are married filing jointly you can contribute if you earn $194,000 or less.

Basics of a Roth IRA


Keep in mind that you cannot contribute to both an IRA and a Roth IRA maximally.  The limit of $5,500 applies to both IRAs combined.


Backdoor Roth IRA


The tax free growth of an IRA can be a benefit and many people might prefer to pay taxes on the income in exchange for the tax free growth.  The problem comes when your income no longer allows you to contribute to a Roth IRA.  What do you do then?

There are a couple of solutions I know of and one involves a 401(k) Roth but if you don't want a 401(k), there is another more "simple" solution.  It's called a "Backdoor Roth".  Under certain circumstances you can contribute to a traditional IRA which has no income limitations and convert that contribution into a Roth IRA contribution.  This is a complicated subject and can have other tax implications including paying taxes on the "income" withdrawn from the traditional IRA so, again, talk to your tax adviser before considering this option.


SEP IRA


A Simplified Employee Pension (SEP) IRA is the first account that is geared towards employers.

A SEP IRA is similar to a traditional IRA in that the contributions lower your taxable income.  You are only eligible for a SEP IRA if you have self employment income.

The big advantage with a SEP IRA is that you can contribute up to 25% of your wages from the business's income, up to a maximum of $53,000.  There is no annual reporting to the IRS.

The big disadvantage is that you must contribute to your employees SEP IRA equally if you have employees (under specific guidelines).  If you contribute 20% of your salary, you need to contribute 20% of your employee's income toward their SEP IRA.  If you are the only employee and you plan to keep it that way, a SEP IRA can meet most people's retirement needs.   I set mine up in 5 minutes from Fidelity with no fees and they are available at most brokerages without fees.

You are limited in your investment vehicles including the inability to invest in real estate or life insurance and you cannot take a loan from the SEP IRA like you can from the 401(k).

Withdrawal Limitations - Same as traditional IRAs.  Penalties if withdrawn before 59 and a half.

Income Limitation - No income limitations.  The only limitations are the amount that you can contribute which is a maximum of 25% or $53,000 (whichever is lower) for 2015.



Basics of a SEP IRA


You can contribute to both a traditional or Roth IRA and a SEP IRA since this is considered an employer sponsored plan and the regular IRAs are employee sponsored



401(k)


A 401(k) plan is a bit more complicated, especially if you have employees.  Often times there is a plan administrator with annual fees and fees to have the plan drawn up.   Employees can contribute up to $18,000 a year and there may or may not be some sort of employer match on those funds.  Employers can contribute up to $53,000 a year, of which $18,000 are employee deferrals and decrease their taxable income but not their self employment taxes (Social security, Medicare and Medicaid).  The other $35,000 do not have self employment taxes.  The funds and their growth are tax deferred until withdrawal, similar to a traditional IRA.

Withdrawal Limitations - funds cannot be withdrawn before 59 and a half without penalty.

Income Limitations - None, just a maximum contribution of $18,000 for employees and $53,000 for employers.

Basics of a 401(k)


As opposed to a SEP IRA, you can buy life insurance and invest in real estate (under certain conditions) with 401(k) contributions.

Another big advantage of a 401(k) is that you can borrow money from the 401(k) without paying a penalty.  That money must be paid back to the 401(k) with interest.  The interest is not significant since you own the 401(k) you are paying yourself but it still needs to go into the plan for retirement.  This can be a good way to increase your short term available capital (think Q4).  This is usually limited to a maximum of 50% or $50,000.


401(k) Roth


A 401(k) Roth is similar to a Roth IRA in that you contribute with after-tax dollars so it doesn't lower your current tax burden.  Instead the money grows tax free and the gains can be withdrawn tax free.  The contribution limits are the same as a 401(k):  $18,000 for employees, $53,000 for employers.  You cannot contribute to both a 401(k) and a 401(k) Roth to the maximum contribution levels.  You can do a maximum of $18,000/$53,000 between the two accounts.


Withdrawal Limitations - Similar to a Roth IRA, you cannot withdraw the money penalty free before the money has been there for 5 years unless you are 59 in a half or met certain criteria.

Income limitations - There are no income limitations.  This is a big difference between an IRA Roth and a 401(k) Roth.


This chart is from the IRS website




HSA


A Health Spending Account (HSA) is an account that you can use to pay qualified medical expenses with pretax dollars.  Any money contributed to your HSA lowers your taxable income like a traditional IRA.  If you use the money on qualified medical expenses you are not taxed upon withdrawal like a Roth IRA.  You are also not taxed on the income as it grows like a traditional IRA.

As opposed to an FSA, the money contributed is not lost year to year if it isn't spent.  Everyone knows that friend buying $3,000 worth of glasses and Band-Aids at the end of the year ;)


In addition, if you make it to retirement without using the money for healthcare spending, you can withdraw the money like a traditional IRA. If you use the money for medical expenses in retirement you don't pay taxes on the growth.  If you withdraw for non medical related expenses, you will pay taxes on the growth upon withdrawal like a regular IRA.

This is actually one of the potentially best accounts in terms of taxes.  The White Coat Investor actually calls it a Stealth IRA.


A big drawback is that you need to have a high deductible health plan (HDHP) to qualify.


HSA contribution limits (from Wikipedia)



Defined Benefit Plan


A defined benefit plan is mostly designed for those who are 50 and older and would like to contribute very large sums every year until retirement (think $200,000+ annually)

This is when actuarial calculations come into play and is very complicated.  Beyond the scope of this post.



In general, all of the accounts are relatively cheap and can be done on your own or with minimal help including a single employee 401(k).

If you have W2 employees besides yourself or you want a Defined Benefit Plan, that probably should not be done on your own.

If you are interested in a referral for a tax lawyer who administers these accounts, please email me at orensmoneysaver @ gmail.com and I can forward over the information (I earn no commission on the referral).

I hope that this can provide some basis with which to talk to your accountant or tax adviser but please, please don't make tax decisions based on this.  That wouldn't be smart.  That being said, there are lots of ways to lower tax burden and you should maximize decreasing your taxes when possible.



Any important retirement accounts I'm missing that you are contributing to?  Let me know in the comments.



Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Turnover Tuesdays - Dealing with Amazon Restrictions

For those who are not familiar, I started a series a while back called Turnover Tuesdays. Every Tuesday I like to highlight one item that I have resold. This will include profitable and non profitable sales. I hope that there is always something to learn.




Sunday, July 24, 2016

Raise Limiting Staples Gift Card Purchases to $500 a Week? Might be Time to Check out Gift Card Mart with 5x Ultimate Rewards

I was trying to buy some Staples Gift Cards on Raise and I got the following error:




I don't know if this is my account or everyone's but they aren't letting me buy more than $500 a week.  Interesting.


This might give me the opportunity to use Gift Card Mart which is now being reported to earn 5x Ultimate Rewards points when making gift card purchases.  That's a big of a game changer as I've only had very good experiences buying from them.


Be aware that there is a one time fraud prevention you need to go through if you are a first time buyer.

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Turnover Tuesdays - When a Good Deal Goes Bad

For those who are not familiar, I started a series a while back called Turnover Tuesdays. Every Tuesday I like to highlight one item that I have resold. This will include profitable and non profitable sales. I hope that there is always something to learn.




Monday, July 18, 2016

Long Term Storage Fees Are Coming in August!

Every 6 months, on February 15th and August 15th Amazon assesses a long term storage fee for any units in their fulfillment center for 6 months or longer on those dates.  The same fee applies if the item has been there for 6 months or 9 months, but the fee is even steeper if the item has been there 1 year or longer on those days.


You can learn more about Long Term Storage Fees at this link (referral link).



The next Fulfillment by Amazon inventory cleanup is scheduled for August 15, 2016. On that day, units that have been in an Amazon fulfillment center in the U.S. for six to 12 months will be assessed a Long-Term Storage Fee of $11.25 per cubic foot. Units that have been in an Amazon fulfillment center for more than 12 months will be assessed a Long-Term Storage Fee of $22.50 per cubic foot.
If you file a Removal Order before August 15, 2016, to have this inventory returned to you, you will be unable to send in additional units of these ASINs until January 1, 2017. You can continue to sell through your remaining inventory of these ASINs. You are responsible for paying appropriate fees for the return of these units




This is  the first time I will be likely be assessed a long term storage fee.


You can check which of your units will be assessed LTSFs by clicking on Inventory> Inventory Planning>Inventory Age

You can then sort your inventory based on how long it has been there or based on your LTSFs.  It's more useful to sort based on LTSFs since it will show you items that will be assessed storage fees on August 15th when it will be 6 months then even though it hasn't quite been 6 months yet.



I was a little shocked at how severe the fees are when you look at them practically for large items.  Don't get me wrong, the fees are laid out and I'm not upset at Amazon but my strategy will have to change a little bit.




You can see that I have one item that I'm going to pay more than $650 in LTSFs.  That's not good.  For smaller items the fees can be negligible.


Check it out, you may want to lower your prices or create removal orders to lower your fees just be aware that if you create a removal order you won't be able to send them back in under the same ASIN until January 1st which is obviously missing the quarter 4 price bump.  You may also decide that some items it might be worth it to keep and pay fees but please be aware of these fees and act accordingly.

Friday, July 15, 2016

Use Gmail Boomerang for Shipment Reconciliations

I've talked about Gmail Boomerang before as a way of keeping track of your returns, specifically the returns that don't even make it back to Amazon but somehow never get reimbursed.  Check out that post for more info on how to use Boomerang.  Boomerang is free for the first 15 times you use it in the month, it was so useful to me that I ended up paying $50 for annual membership.

I've gotten quite a few reimbursements this way but Amazon seems to have partially solved this problem.  Others have noticed and I have noticed as well that a very high percentage of returns started actually make it back to Amazon.  It could be that they now initiate the return when the buyer confirms the shipment back to Amazon.  Not sure.

Either way, Boomerang is less useful for returns thought I still find some that never make it back.


I have now started to use Boomerang for shipments reconciliations as well.


Shipment Reconciliations 


If you send 20 items in one shipment and somehow only 18 make it to Amazon you are eligible for a reconciliation from Amazon and a possible reimbursement for the missing inventory.  A few months back Amazon made a very annoying but understandable change to the way reconciliations are done.



It used to be that you can ask for a reconciliation within a few days or a week after the first box of the shipment hits Amazon.  It made it easy to just check your list of shipments on one page and see if there was a discrepancy between how many were sent and how many made it.  The problem for Amazon was that it was very easy to ask for reconciliation and to receive a reimbursement and many times they had to reverse the reimbursement once the rest of your shipment finally made it into the fulfillment center.



Now, you often have to wait more than a week and sometimes two weeks or more before you are eligible for a reconciliation. In two weeks I'll have made so many new shipments that it can be quite difficult to remember and find all the ones that need reconciliation.  So what is an FBA seller to do?  Boomerang to the rescue again.






Amazon sends up to 3 emails for each shipment

One email says Checked In, one says Receiving and the last says Received in Full.


I used to archive shipment notifications almost immediately.  I would look at the SKUs in the shipment and see if I needed to adjust pricing but that was it.


I now do not archive those emails until I am done reconciling that shipment.



After I receive the Receiving email I will archive the Checked In email, after I Receive the Received in Full email I will archive the Checked In email.


I check each shipment after they are Received in Full to make sure there are no issues.  Sometimes it says in full but it actually isn't.


If the Received in Full does not come through after a few days I will then check the reconciliation date.  I use Boomerang to resend the "Receiving" email back to me on the date of reconciliation.  In that way, it's much easier to to reconcile shipments.

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Happy Prime Day Everyone!

Turnover Tuesdays will be postponed this week in honor of Prime Day.

As I'm sure everyone here is aware of, today is Amazon Prime Day.  A day when  we can snag some really great deals but you will likely have to move fast.


A couple of things I'm keeping in mind during Prime Day


For Buying:


  • If you still have Discover Doubling, you use your Discover card for 5% cashback which will turn into 10% cashback at the end of your 13th statement.  Make sure to activate the 5% category before purchasing as it doesn't work retroactively (Pro Tip: Chase Freedom 5% activation does work retroactively)
  • If you don't have Discover, consider buying gift cards from the MPX app.  You will earn 2x United miles and your credit card rewards (2.5x if you have the United CC).  You can also buy from Gyft using your Chase INK via PayPal to earn 5x ultimate rewards points
  • Please make your purchase through the link of your favorite blogger.  The money goes a long way psychologically, if not economically :) This assumes that you will not be earning a shopping portal bonus.  Amazon does offer some categories on shopping portals but not much.

Here is my link if you are so inclined.  I would be most grateful :)





For Selling:


  • Most likely, electronics will be the hot items today.  You can consider lowering your price to grab tons of sales.  Personally, I am raising my electronics prices.  I want all the cheap inventory out leaving me with little competition.  That being said, that is a huge risk so weigh your options carefully
  • Check your pending orders early and often.  If something is selling, you may need to raise prices dynamically to grab the most profit if it's still early in the day.



Here's hoping we crush it today!

Monday, July 11, 2016

Small Tip for Finding Distributors

This past Tuesday I posted about starting relationships with Distributors and/or brand manufacturers as a way of buying in bulk and at cheaper prices.

A few people emailed and commented that they are unsure where to begin.

I'll share how I found my first distributor and hopefully that will give you a way to get started.


Almost a year ago I saw some popcorn from Staples Clearance.  It was $5.  I scanned it with the app and it came up as selling for about $15 on Amazon with about $5 in fees with an ok rank in groceries (gated category - don't buy groceries unless you are ungated) so it was 100% return on my investment.  Always a good play!

I bought them and they sold pretty quickly.  I went back to Staples and the rest were gone.  I went to a new staples and found them and they were now $3.50 and selling for $20 on Amazon.  Fantastic!

They were still selling well for me and I went to more and more Staples stores to find my popcorn.  Unfortunately, it was in clearance they weren't going to carry this popcorn anymore which is why the markdowns continued.  No!!!!!

I kept searching online where I could find the popcorn on different sites and despite it being somewhat popular I couldn't find it available anywhere.


So I went directly to the website for the company.  On the site they had a list of distributors who were selling this popcorn and an email to contact them about bulk buying.

I emailed them with no response for weeks and weeks despite follow up emails.


I then called each of the distributors on the site.  Only one of them was still selling the popcorn, but I finally found it.  That was my first distributor relationship

Once I had a list of products that they sold I went through the list and found some other products which I buy from time to time as they are not super sellers but every little bit helps for replenishables.  



So that's one way to begin.  Find a product that you know sells well and you want to buy in bulk. Look up information from the company's website to find distributors.  Most of the time that information is readily available.

If that doesn't work, you can always try this.